PHILOSOPHY & APPROACH
I plan the Sulawesi cycle trips with adventure cyclists in mind, riders who want the physical challenge
of tropical mountains, travellers who are looking for cultural adventure in a traditional Asian society
off the beaten track, riders who view the un-predictability of travel in a developing country as something
to be expected, accepted, enjoyed, and, with appropriate effort, understood.
I didn't "select" Sulawesi with those criteria in mind. Beginning 1996 they just evolved over many trips -
alone, with my son, with groups - to most parts of the island. Developing cycle routes in Flores, in strong
contrast with Sulawesi, has an easy to follow logic, east to west, or vice versa.
I try to develop circular routes (to avoid having to carry bike boxes) with distances 70 - 100 km per day
(most riders are comfortable with these distances) that finish at spots where we can swim. Nothing like a
dip at the end of a hard cycle day.
In planning a trip I look for mountains, beaches, lakes, waterfalls and culturally interesting places. I try to
avoid busy crowded roads. I also try to minimize time on the flat because its in the flat areas where populations
densest are highest, with obvious traffic implications. Fortunately population density in Sulawesi is much lower
than in most of the rest of South East Asia. Nonetheless getting routes that meet all the criteria is tricky
because the geography of the island with its many 'dead end peninsulas' means that you've got to fly - rather than
cycle - back to the trip start point. The patchy un-uniform patterns of human settlement and economic development
make it awkward to plan routes that have standard daily distances with the result that on most of the trips there's
a wide variety of daily cycle distances. The highly irregular geology of the island goes a long way to assure that no
one day's ride is the same as another. Mot of this, if not all, applies to Flores also.
The geographic dis-uniformity in Sulawesi is matched by ethnic, linguistic and socio-cultural diversity. The major
ethnic groups on the island - the Buginese, the Makassarese, the Minahasans and the Toraja for example, have their
own cuisines, architecture, languages, traditions and customs. And although the Dutch had a presence in Sulawesi for
several centuries it was limited mostly to Makassar and Manado. For most of the rest of the island the Dutch influence
was short and superficial, religion in Toraja, Central and North Sulawesi being a notable exception. Multi – ethnicity
is a feature of Flores also and the influence that the Dutch had on the island is even less that in Sulawesi though the
Portugese who had a presence in Larantuka on the eastern tip of the island, have influenced Catholic ritual.
Once I've got a route that more or less meets the criteria I then look for accommodation, 60 – 100 km apart, depending
upon the terrain. On many of the routes suitable accommodation is hard to find because the best cycling is in the less
populated and least commercial parts of the island yet the best accommodation is usually available in these built up
areas. Once the accommodation is in place I then look for suitable warungs (streetside cafes), and again, the choices
are often limited because the routes are usually a long way from population centres, built up areas and miles from tourist
hangouts. I don't carry 'meal' food in the support vehicles rather I follow the principle eat what the locals eat.
Coffee and tea being exceptions.
The cycle day
I like to start early, 6.30 am thereabouts, and have lunch at the finish point or a couple of hours pedal from it, arriving
at the destination around 3 pm, give or take an hour or two, thus allowing time for a siesta before late afternoon yoga /
Feldenkrais ATM, 5 - 5.30 pm. The reality doesn't always turn out this way but usually only for 1 - 2 days on any one trip.
I try to have dinner at 7 pm. After a day's cycling, yoga and swimming, most people flake by 8.30 pm or so.
During the actual cycling I try to keep the group 'more or less' together and to promote opportunities for mixing, particularly
between the speed-heads and the more relaxed riders. I encourage riders to stay between the two support vehicles though if riders
really want to push on ahed I accommodate that too.
I try to stop at pondoks - apparently temporary but in fact permanent roadside bamboo and thatch shelters. These simple structures
are for locals to rest in, to escape the heat or rain or just to catch up on local gossip. If I can't find a pondok I 'll usually
opt for a warung (street-side coffee shop) or a spot where there's a good view or lots of shade. Stops are multi-purpose. Apart
from providing relief to weary sitting bones and having a cuppa, you can stretch, enjoy the camaraderie of other riders and bonhomie
with the locals who usually want to know everything about us, after all, with our shiny gear and lycra, we look like creatures
from outer space. Often there's a fun exchange of language learning.
There's always enough flexibility in the planned ride to permit spontaneous stops to explore things that might catch your
attention. Where I stop to talk to locals I become ‘the interpreter,' group members become ‘interviewers' with the locals
becoming 'interviewees'. The rest of the group ‘listens in' to ‘the interview'. Once you become familiar and skilled with this
process it gives you access to aspects of local life that otherwise would remain a mystery. In past trips groups have dropped in on
village meetings, police stations, Balinese funerary rites, Muslim circumcision ceremonies, weddings, seaweed farmers, rice farmers,
martial arts classes, community health clinics and schools. Distance or time between rest stops is a function of terrain, group cycle
strength, availability of suitable stop spots, need for rest, need for refreshments, the ambient scenery, etc.
At the trip start and finish points, which are usually in major population centres such as Makassar, the accommodation is 'international'.
Accommodation along the way is mostly in simple family run guesthouses called 'wismas'. The other guests at these wismas tend to be
commercial travellers. On my routes other foreigners are rarely seen. These wismas are usually clean, have AC and sit down toilets.
Many of them have hot water. Towels and soap are supplied. Security has never been a problem.
If there's a choice I always choose the 'best available'. On the Toraja trips we spend some of the nights in traditional boat shaped houses.
I fully understand that plenty of nutritious food for heavy duty cycling is a must. I always stick to the local Sulawesi cuisine which means
nasi goreng (fried rice) or nasi kuning (rice cooked in coconut milk) for breakfast or in those parts where tourists pass through, banana
pancakes or bread. For lunch & dinner steamed rice, grilled fish or chicken and stir fried or fresh salad vegetables plus a chicken, fish or
broth. It's tasty with the chillies being served separately as a sambal made from fried garlic, onions and tomatoes. Dessert is fruit-in-season.
It's a simple, wholesome low fat, non-dairy dietary regime.
A note on fish is required. Indonesians in general and Sulawesians in particular prepare their fish differently to Westerners the most obvious
difference being that while Westerners usually fillet their fish Sulawesians, after having cleaned and scaled the fish cook it with the skin,
head and tail all intact, these parts plus many of the bones all being eaten.
While we're cycling the support crew are always on the lookout for fresh fruits and kue kampung or village cakes, which are usually made from
sticky rice flour, palm sugar and coconut flesh or cream. We carry our own fresh water on the support vehicles and at the rest stops you can
fill your bidons and enjoy cups of hot tea and coffee or a cool drink also from the cool box. On some days we'll buy vegetables from morning
markets for cooking further down the track.
Roughly speaking I have one van for every 6 riders. At the start of each day riders put their heavy luggage in these vans. One of the vans
carries water tanks, snacks, cycle repair gear and the cycle mechanic. At the end of the day the drivers take our bikes, wash them and the
mechanic lightly services the bikes and conducts any necessary repairs.
Yoga / Feldenkrais relaxation
After we've reached our destination and late in the afternoon, before dinner, if there is a suitable venue and there's a quorum of participants
and the teacher (Colin) has the energy, you can join an optional yoga and / or Feldenkrais relaxation class. Riders tell me that for them the
stretching and relaxation in the yoga is one of the highlights of the trip. In leading the practice I assume that no one has done any yoga
before. The pace is slow and apart from getting a stretch I'm keen that by the end of the trip you'll have a store of asanas (postures) that you
can take back home. Feldenkrais ATM is a wonderful way of relieving oneself of joint and muscular stiffness that long distance cycle invariably causes.
The people in Sulawesi and Flores are friendly, hospitable, respectful and very tolerant towards overseas visitors, especially cyclists. The trip will
have police approval and in some places we may be police escorted through town, a real hoot. On some Sundays we'll join with local cyclists on their
regular Sunday ride. Sulawesi drivers are far more tolerant, respectful and patient towards cyclists than their counterparts in Australia.
In the early stages bahasa Indonesia is easy to learn because its not tonal like some mainland Asian languages are and a few key words can take you a
long way. As well Indonesians are incredibly receptive towards foreigners who have a go. My experience is that you take one step towards them and
they take 10 towards you.
During the trip at rest stops I'll actively teach you the basic elements of the Indonesian language such as counting, basic courtesies and
greetings. I'll make opportunities for you to interact with the locals where ever we might find ourselves so that you can practice the language that
you've just learned.
In order to run the trip we need at least 6 riders and I're reluctant to take more then 10 riders. These small numbers help the building of supportive
and harmonious relationships and make teaching / learning yoga and Indonesian language easier than with a large group.
Health and fitness
These trips are not for feint hearted arm chair couch potatoes. They are for cycle prepared healthy individuals who don't mind a bit of roughing it.
Anyone interested should check with their family doctor as to what inoculations are required as they vary from time to time and from country to
country. And you should be prepared to commit yourself to a training program (cycling 3x a week at least in the weeks before the trip) that,
ideally, should start 3 months prior to the trip.
Rider Demographice 2009-2016
||South South Sulawesi
AGE & GENDER
|30 - 39
|40 - 49
|50 - 59
|60 - 69
A suggested Packing List appears elsewhere in this site: